Photo Essay: The Sweet Tradition of Nazir Ahmad Sheikh’s Phirni –  A Ramadan Delight in Srinagar

Photo Essay: The Sweet Tradition of Nazir Ahmad Sheikh’s Phirni – A Ramadan Delight in Srinagar

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As the sun sets over Srinagar, signaling the end of a long day of fasting during Ramadan, a familiar sight emerges in the bustling lanes of Aali Kadal. A crowd gathers, eager and expectant, around the humble cart of 73-year-old Nazir Ahmad Sheikh, a man renowned for his special Phirni—a creamy, fragrant dessert that has become an essential part of iftar for many.

For over six decades, Nazir Ahmad Sheikh has been carrying forward a sweet legacy, one that he inherited from his father. With a lifetime dedicated to perfecting the craft, he continues to serve generations with the same love and expertise that made his Phirni a household name. Despite his advancing age, Sheikh remains committed to the tradition, now with the help of his sons who assist him in preparing and serving this beloved treat.

Phirni is a dessert made with ground rice or rice flour cooked in milk. It is eaten chilled and traditionally served in clay bowls called shikoras. It is flavored with aromatic spices such as cardamom, saffron, and rose water and garnished with nuts like almonds and pistachios, along with rose petals and edible silver leaf (vark). It is often prepared for occasions or festivals such as Eid or during Ramadan.

In Kashmir, however, Phirni takes on a unique form. Unlike the Phirni made in Punjab, which uses ground rice, Kashmiri Phirni is made with semolina, giving it a distinct texture and flavor. Nazir Ahmad Sheikh’s secret recipe blends semolina, cow’s milk, sugar, and dry fruits into a rich, velvety delight. The magic, however, lies not just in the ingredients but in the meticulous preparation and the years of experience that Sheikh brings to his craft. His Phirni is more than just a dessert—it is a symbol of warmth, community, and the deep-rooted traditions of Kashmir.

In Afghanistan, a similar dessert known as phirni is typically made with cornstarch. Rose water-flavored and banana-flavored phirni are two of the most popular varieties, and like its South Asian counterpart, Afghan phirni is also prepared for special occasions such as weddings and Eid.

Every evening during Ramadan, people flock to Sheikh’s stall, waiting patiently for their turn to savor a bowl of this comforting delicacy. The joy on their faces as they take the first bite is something Sheikh cherishes deeply. “I never imagined people would love my Phirni so much,” he says, humbled by the adoration he receives.

As time moves forward and traditions evolve, Nazir Ahmad Sheikh’s Phirni remains a constant—a taste of nostalgia, a symbol of devotion, and a cherished part of Ramadan in Srinagar. And as long as he and his family continue this legacy, the streets of Aali Kadal will always be filled with the aroma of something truly special.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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