Tilla is one of the most exquisite forms of embroidery in Kashmir. It is extensively used to decorate ethnic wear with the help of silver, golden, and copper metallic threads. The threads are delicately tied by needlepoint over the fabric to create exquisite designs. Tilla is a traditional craft of Kashmir which is used to adorn pherans and shawls but over the years, the embroidery is done on sarees, shalwar kameez, and other garments as well. Tilla refers to the gold or silver zari and dori refers to the silk thread. Zari is basically a brocade of tinsel thread meant for weaving and embroidery. It is manufactured by winding or wrapping (covering) a flattened metallic strip made from pure gold, silver or slit metallised polyester film, on a core yarn, usually of pure silk. Nowadays, it can broadly be divided into three types. Real zari, imitation zari (using electroplated copper wires), and metallic zari. Zari is used in various forms such as Zardozi, Kataoki Bel, Mukaish, Tilla or Marori Work, Gota Work, and Kinari Work.

Originally, Tilla embroidery was done using real silver or gold. The precious metals were hammered and flattened to form wires of threads and these were used for bejeweling apparel and accessories, especially for the brides. The silver or gold would age like an artifact, acquiring an antique look with each passing year. The process of Tilla Dozi begins with the Naqash or the designer, who draws the design over the trace paper, and perforates this paper with the help of a specialized needle, the process known as “Trombun”. Meanwhile, his assistants prepare the white and blue inks, by mixing sand from the river of Jhelum with some kerosene. The trace paper is placed carefully on the cloth and a paper weight placed over it. It is then that a duster dipped in ink (blue for dark shaded cloth and white for light shaded ones) is passed. The result causes prints of chinar leaves, paisleys and different types of Kashmiri flowers to befall these pieces of plain cloth. This, “Chaamp Traavun” is the second step in casting the beautiful embroidery. This imprinted cloth is then passed onto a Tilla artisan who uses two threads – one of staple and the other of Tilla and embroiders the plain canvas awaiting his strokes. Often used synonymously, Kashmiri Tilla and Zari stand a world apart. The former uses a metallic underwire coated with gold or silver while the latter uses a silk thread as its base which is covered by silver and golden hues. The usage of the metallic underwire makes the tilla thread much thicker than the Zari one. Once embroidered, the Tilla gives of a bold, embossed and multi-dimensional look while Zari sticks to the fabric looking more delicate.