Crewel work is a hand-embroidery technique traditionally done in Kashmir, with a hook (aari) and mostly on woolen yarns in single or 2-ply with colours ranging from white to multi-coloured. Crewel Embroidery is usually done on bolts of fabric in varying widths – 56″ wide dusooti cotton manufactured locally in Kashmir being the most common. Fabric bolts may be 20 to 33 yards in length, although custom orders at times require longer yardages per bolt.

Crewel embroidery, or crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old. Crewel embroidery is not identified with particular styles of designs, but rather is embroidery with the use of this wool thread. Modern crewel wool is a fine, two-ply or one-ply yarn available in many different colours. The crewel technique is not a counted-thread embroidery (like canvas work), but a style of free embroidery. Counted-thread embroidery is any embroidery in which the number of warp and weft yarns in a fabric are methodically counted out for each stitch, resulting in uniform-length stitches and a precise, uniform embroidery pattern.

Traditionally, crewel embroidery is done on tightly woven linen twill, though more recently, other fabrics like Matka silk, cotton velvet, rayon velvet, silk organza, net fabric and also jute have been used. A firm fabric is required to support the weight of the stitching, which is done with crewel wool. This type of wool has a long staple; it is fine and can be strongly twisted. It is best to use a crewel needle to execute the stitches as a needle with a wide body, large eye and a sharp point is required.

Many different embroidery stitches are used in crewelwork to create a textured and colourful effect. Unlike silk or cotton embroidery threads, crewel wool is thicker and creates a raised, dimensional feel to the work. Some of the techniques and stitches include:

• Outlining stitches such as stem stitch, chain stitch and split stitch.
• Satin stitches to create flat, filled areas within a design.
• Couched stitches, where one thread is laid on the surface of the fabric and another thread is used to tie it down. Couching is often used to create a trellis effect within an area of the design.
• Seed stitches, applied randomly in an area to give a lightly shaded effect.
• French knots are commonly used in floral and fruit motifs for additional texture.
• Laid and couched work.
• Long and short “soft shading”.

The crewel making process begins with the selection of a design – “Tree of Life”, “Jacobean” and “Maple” are some of the most commonly used designs by manufacturers in Kashmir. Custom designs are also made on customer request.

The designer initially makes a rough sketch on a  translucent paper. Once the process is finished, he will then punch holes following the design sketch – this is the traditional “pinprick and chalk” method.

Once the design is ready, the pattern sheet is placed the fabric and an ink soaked cloth (preferably woolen yarn as it soaks less ink) is wiped all over the design so that the ink seeps through the tiny pores in the design sheet to cast a clean imprint on the fabric underneath. This printed fabric is then handed over to the embroiderer.